Hot & Cold Water Repiping.

Two to three days for most residential repipes, assuming standard 3-bedroom, 2-bath construction. Larger homes (4+ bathrooms, 3000+ sqft) typically run 3–5 days. The schedule includes pipe routing and installation (most of day 1 and morning of day 2), pressure testing (mid-day 2), drywall patching and texture matching (day 2–3), and final inspection. We stage work so you have at least one functional bathroom and the kitchen throughout.

For most interior residential repipes: PEX-A. It's flexible, freeze-tolerant, quieter (no water hammer), and installs faster than copper. For coastal homes (within a mile of the ocean): Type-L copper or PEX-A specifically — we avoid PEX-B because the brass fittings degrade faster in salt-air chloride exposure than industry literature accounts for. For high-temperature applications like commercial boiler loops: copper. We recommend based on your specific home, not a one-size-fits-all answer.

No — that's one of the biggest misconceptions about modern repiping. A well-executed repipe routes new supply through attic space, wall cavities, and under-floor channels with small strategic access cuts only where absolutely necessary — typically 6–10 cuts across the whole house rather than opening every wall. We coordinate drywall patching, texture matching, and paint touch-up so the final result is visually clean. Most homeowners can't tell a repipe happened once the work is complete.

Signs it's time: pressure dropping below 40 PSI at fixtures when it should be 55–65, recurring pinhole leaks behind drywall (repair one, find another in six months), rust-colored water at hot taps that doesn't clear after running, visible corrosion on exposed sections of galvanized pipe, or any pre-1970 home still on original galvanized supply. A 30-minute assessment tells you whether you need a spot repair or a full repipe — we'll give you a straight answer rather than pushing the bigger job.

50+ years for both PEX-A and Type-L copper in residential applications. PEX-A installations from the 1990s are still performing without issues; copper repipes from the 1970s and 80s are commonly still in service. The limiting factor is usually fixture-level fittings and valves (which are replaceable) rather than the supply piping itself. A repipe is a once-in-a-lifetime home investment in most cases.